Photos of Australia and Fiji -2014
Each of the 3 photos below is the cover of a photo album. You double click on the link below the photo and it takes you to that album. If you are also interested in reading about the trip, it begins after the photos with the intro to The Land of Oz-2014.
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Intro
Australia
is a magical land, the Land of Oz. It is
vast. It promises adventure. It is rich
in minerals. It greets you at every turn
with the unexpected. It has animals
found nowhere else. It has camels running wild in the dessert. It has ancient tribes with their dreamtime
philosophy.
It
has few people for its size. It has gorgeous
beaches and beautiful cities. It has a
barren outback, a place hot enough to cook an egg without an oven. It has the largest barrier reef system on the
planet. This adventure was about exploring the East Coast of Australia and the
Great Barrier Reef.
Our Arrival On A Wave of Three
We
arrived in Sydney tired from our flight and missing Sara’s luggage. It would be
2 days before it was delivered to our hotel. Not a happy circumstance for her
in a city of well dressed, fashion-oriented females. Both of us travel light
and probably should have carried our small suitcases with us on the plane.
Unfortunately the lock on mine had been cut
off with a pair of bolt cutters, damaging the locking system, but thankfully
all inside was intact. Why they did it, I’ll never know but Qantas would not
fix it or pay to replace it. That was irritating and I had no energy for a
fight nor did I want to spoil my excitement for our Aussie adventure.
The
thieves were undoubtedly disappointed, as I had packed one exchange of used clothes
and meds for 2 months. Valuable meds, like malaria tablets, were with me, as
were electronics and my camera. The only
item of value was a new pair of glove-like, space-saving, dance shoes. Dancing
was obviously a low priority for the locksmith, but also for us, as we were in
search of the perfect beach and the best coral gardens on the Great Barrier
Reef.
I
was able to modify a lock system for my bag.
I rely on it in hotels to keep honest people honest. If a digital safe is not provided, I leave my
electronics and passport stashed in the room.
It’s better than carrying them on the street. Hotels can’t afford to have
negative posts on Trip Advisor.
In
order to get to our hotel from the airport, we opted for a taxi over the train.
The cabby was an Afgan immigrant. Sara
knew that I was getting to cozy and chatty with him. He was an immigrant and I
had immigrated to Australia in 1970. I had residency at the time and I thought
we had a lot in common and much to talk about. I had also been to his hometown,
Kabul, in 1972 when crossing Asia overland to Europe. I shared my Afgan story
of trading two sleeping bags that zipped together, forming a double bed for3
handmade fur-lined sheepskin coats embellished with designs in embroidery. The Muslim store owner who had two wives liked
my idea that they could all sleep, warm and cozy, in the bag together.
When we arrived at our hotel, the cabby asked
for $45. I erroneously gave him $90
Aussie dollars. I was exhausted and the
money color and design were unfamiliar. He looked too appreciative. I counted my
remaining money from the airport exchange and realized that I had given him too
much. I brought it to his attention quickly giving
me back a $20. I was momentarily happy
as he continued in good spirits to unload our luggage to the sidewalk. Then he quickly
left. I counted again and realized that I had given him too many large bills
and had more change coming. First the broken lock, now the $70 cab fare for a
20-minute ride. What was happening here?
You begin to suspect some karmic connection.
When
I’m paying attention, I notice that things happen in waves of three. You notice
the pattern in the extremes of luck good or bad. What would the third event look like? There was an Argentine Tango milonga, our
first night in Sydney, at a Darlington church only half a block from our hotel.
It was extremely convenient given its proximity in a city of 5 million people. The
only other weekly options were miles away. Alas I would have to forgo an opportunity to
use my new shoes until our last few days in Australia. I was happy, though, ready some high good
news. It began with our first full day in
Sydney, exciting, vibrant, and friendly.
What's Not To Love About Sydney
Our
hotel was perfect, centrally located within walking distance of Sydney’s most
important sites. The city takes full
advantage of the sea. There is an excellent ferry system with many interesting neighborhoods
and commercial areas on the river’s edge. For example, you can take a ferry from the
Opera House to the charming neighborhood of Manly Beach in 25 minutes, less
than half the time needed to drive there. Along the waterway you get to view
the cityscape, yachts in full sail, boats, and the hilly landscape.
Sydney
is a city of public spaces. Planning is obviously a thoughtful process. Attention is given to improving livability
with an appreciation of the past, art, and architecture. There are beautiful
parks that interconnect with walkways and bike paths. And the Aussies, a
friendly and helpful lot, take full advantage of their city. There is pride in
sharing their city and pride in being fit. The city is hilly and locals walk
everywhere.
Though
the Aboriginals have been a part of the Australian landscape for 7000 years, early
English settlers didn’t arrive until the late 1700’s. Many of the first white inhabitants were
convicts brought to this remote land to serve their sentences. Those who stayed
planted roots and began the settlement and colonization of Australia. Thus you
will find many well-constructed building of stone from that era still
intact.
Today
there is a respect for Aussie roots and old architecture is valued. New
buildings are designed to maintain an historic façade at the street level. The new blends in with the old in an
impressive way. Architectural design
reflects its respect for history.
It
wasn’t always that way, but what we value is often a reflection of our
self-esteem. In the 1970’s Australians
sense of self-pride was expressed as something foul, stepped in and not quite
able to shake off. They were known to
the world as the sons of convicts and shamed by their heritage. But they are not today. Australians are a proud lot and they’ve every
reason to be so. They have come into their own, built an extraordinary culture
and are respected throughout the world.
They value their architectural past as the foundation, the building
blocks of Australia today.
Sydney
is a city of neighborhoods. From our hotel in Darlinghurst we could walk to the
Opera House in 40 minutes through beautiful botanical gardens opt to walk the
hills and breathe in beautifully restored architecture.
   A block away our neighborhood melded into Kings Cross known for its nightlife, bars and restaurants. Paddington with the latest in Sydney fashion boutiques was a 10-minute walk uphill to Oxford St. in the opposite direction. And these neighborhoods were mainly 2 to 3 story high, not so imposing as the downtown buildings. They made the city feel more personal and certainly more enjoyable as you visited its many neighborhoods. 
Not The First Time
In
1970 I immigrated Australia where with my former wife and 3 year old daughter
we lived in Perth. Australia is the size
of the USA, and at that time, had only 12 million people. The east coast had
nearly, 11 million people leaving West Australia, with over 30% of all the
land, with 1 million inhabitants. 70% of
the people lived in Perth. The rest were
spread out in small towns servicing the mining industry and large stations of
which many raised sheep. There was 3 sheep for every person in West Australia. Mutton
for stews was delicious and cheap. You need never worry about having enough to
eat.
In that era the outback began almost
immediately at Perth’s city limits. From
there it was rural with vast open spaces where you might encounter Big Reds,
the largest of the Kangaroo family, nearly 6 ft. tall. This was also the land of the Aboriginal. The
walkabout was more than a ritualistic right of passage for a young man. It was an essential nomadic practice in
search of food and water. The Aboriginals have always had a strong connection
with the red earth.
Today
there are 26 million people in Australia, still not many and that of
possibility and dream fulfillment still exists. Aussies travel everywhere and
find jobs within hours, unlike Argentina where a graduate in economics might
compete with 4000 others for one job. In
Australia the brightest easily find work and our paid well. It’s a rich country and an honest one. There
are important mineral deposits from gold to nickel. Politicians apparently leave self-interest
behind, and use taxes from these resources to improve quality of life, the
infrastructure, the cityscapes, and to offer a multitude of opportunity to the
average Australian citizen. No wonder so
many foreigners want to live there.
Aboriginals And Boomerangs
There
was a time when aboriginal children with mixed blood and looked white were
taking from their families and put in special transitional schools to help
assimilate them into the Australia Society. The program was a complete
disaster. There were other programs.. The government tried to preserve land for
them, creating reservations. They also gave
them money. White traded alcohol and
other goods as the Aboriginals had little use for the money in the bush. Even
today traders fly into remote reservations and trade goods for dollars in
highly profitable transactions. The
Aboriginals live in a primitive way and have no idea of the intrinsic value of
the Chinese made goods that they are buying.
In the seventies my experience with the aboriginals was in the outback
where they wandered the arid landscape for food and lodging. It was still a very primitive culture, and
not many came into Perth. Today I saw many young aboriginals living in Sydney,
Brisbane, and other small towns. They
dress in Western clothes and go to public schools with whites. On the surface there appears to have been
some progress in cultural assimilation.
I
recall a visit to an Aboriginal Reserve in Laverton. The people lived in makeshift housing of
recycled wood and tin. The kids all
seemed to have constantly runny noses. But everyone was so warm and friendly to
us. I was photographing when several men
returned in primitive dress to us carrying long spears and boomerangs. Lashed
to their side were big hunks of fresh kangaroo meat covered with blood and
thick with flies. The children ran to
them and the men hacked off pieces of raw kangaroo that the children gleefully
chewed.
One of the men was carrying a boomerang that
he had hand-carved with an emu in varying position of eating and
attentiveness. This was a hunting boomerang
that thrown skillfully could break the neck of an emu. It didn’t return to you
if it missed its mark. The Emu is swift and evasive, traveling vast distances
at over 30mph. Thus you need to be quick and skillful if you expect to make a
supper of one of them. Anyway, the artist/hunter
admired my T-shirt graphics. He wanted
my shirt. I admired his boomerang and
told him so.
 I soon was taking off my shirt which brought giggles from the children in easy exchange for the both of us. Yes, I frown on those who try and exploit the aboriginals and perhaps I was walking a fine line myself. My justification is that I traded the boomerang for the personal joy that it brought me, knowing the artist, giving him something he truly wanted, and not for the possibility of profit.
I
still have that boomerang. It gives me such pleasure when I view it. . It jars forgotten memories of time spent in
the outback. I’ve yet to see another boomerang
of such quality and without such a story to go with it, I probably never will.
I believe it belongs in a museum. I took a photo of it with me to Australia hoping to stumble upon a proper home for it.
The old man is undoubtedly deceased but I’ve come to appreciate what a gifted
artist he was.
The primitive quality of the imagery depicts in such vividness the movement of the Emu like a Molina Campos painting of life in the Australian pampas. It belongs to his grandchildren and the aboriginal race. It is a part of their heritage and I feel with each passing day that I’ve only been its guardian. I want to avoid it becoming a part of a private collection. Any ideas are appreciated as to where it belongs that would allow it to be enjoyed by many. 
Today
the aboriginal is dressed in western-style clothes. Today
He shops at the supermarket Only in the Outback does he still hunt for his food
by a billabong. Their cultural roots run
deep and are not easily eroded. Thus they are caught in a continuum of
transition into the white man’s culture.
Education has made great strides toward integrating them, but prejudice
is still apparent.
Our travels would take us to Cairns where the
plight of the fruit bat reminded me of the plight of the Aboriginal today. In Cairns Fruit bats, impressive because of
their size, have a large colony in a downtown city park. At dusk with wingspans
of 1 meter or more, Like bloodthirsty vampires, they leave their roost where
they hang all day in the trees, to begin their nightly search for food. It was something to witness, a multistoried
apartment building encircled by hundreds of bats, as the night sky turns
orange, then fades to black. It was like a scene from Hitchcock’s movieThe
Birds. All windows were closed and no one was enjoying their balcony.
Many
locals want the bats removed as they defecate on the sidewalks, parked cars,
and buildings. They are noisy too and cases have been recorded of people being
attacked by an unhealthy bat. These unfortunate incidences fuel the argument to
exterminate them.
Yet
the bats were there first, like the aboriginals. It occurred to me that a delicate balance of
survival has been achieved through coexistence and acceptance of them in a
downtown city park. They are a constant
reminder of the delicate balance of nature and other living species. It’s not an ideal housing arrangement for
either, the people or the bats, but the hope is that all can continue live in
harmony. Time will tell.
One
night sitting on the curb of a Cairn’s street corner was a family of Aboriginals.
They were enjoying the night air, the stars, and sharing a meal. Like the fruit bats, they are unwanted, considered
lazy, and labeled a nuisance. Their cultural
roots run deep and they are not programmed with a protestant work ethic. They
have always lived off the land, now legally claimed by white people. They are
not comfortable in the hotels and restaurants. They prefer to dine surrounded
by nature. To us it’s a neighborhood street
corner.
Australia has made great progress since 1970
in recognizing the rights and cultural contribution of the Aboriginal. The government has attempted to assimilate
them into a fast-paced, white society. More thoughtful approaches are needed.
The aboriginals, like the fruit bats, know how to live in harmony with others.. Do we?
The Trip
I
always wanted to dive on the Great Barrier Reef. Our trip would take us from Sydney to Cairns
about 3000 km. We would spend time in
Brisbane, then fly to Arlie Beach, the gateway to the Whitsunday Islands. Here
we would visit one of the world’s most beautiful island beaches. From Arlie it
was a nine hour bus ride to Cairns through the dairy land and sugar cane fields
of Queensland. Cairns offers the closest access to the outer Great Barrier Reef.
The dream was to snorkel in this wonderland of Coral, colorful fish, giant
clams, and curious sharks. My imagination was free diving in this mythic place.
Soon I would add my reality to all the stories and pictures that were drawing
me to experience the Great Barrier Reef first hand.
The Daintree Rainforest
The
Daintree Rainforest is a world Heritage National Park. You enter it about 2
hours from Cairns. The highlight of the
park is the Mossman Gorge. Local
Aboriginals have created a thoughtful, yet primitive trail system that meanders
through the rainforest with many vistas of the river and nearby creeks. It is truly a magical place with natural
pools for swimming to cool away the sweltering heat and high humidity.
Beyond
Mossman, you cross the Daintree River by cable car ferry on your way to Cape
Tribulation. It is also possible to take
a river cruise, enjoying the tropical fauna which hangs over the river. Crocodiles are often seen, some as big as 3 to
4 meters. These are large enough to eat
a cow or wild pig.
 
Once
you’ve crossed the river you are nearing the end of paved road. A dusty, dirt
track invites only 4 wheel drive vehicles to venture further. This is as far from Sydney as we dare go. We
have traveled nearly 3000km. Not wanting
to stop, we attempt the bumy, potholed road but it’s too unsafe. Instead we
accept the limits of our vechile and return to visit the beach at Cape
Tribulation. It is here at the cape that
the Great Barrier Reef ends. Here both of these world heritage sites meet at
the shore of this wild, uninhabited rain forest.
 
Cape
Tribulation has a lovely beach surrounded by jungle. As usual we are warned not swim because of
jellyfish. But here we are also warned of aggressive crocodiles that frequent
the beach. It’s unnerving to always be
looking over your shoulder. It is also nearly dusk so we decide its time to
return to the car and head toward Cairns.
Another
dream has been fulfilled. Scratching it from my bucket list, I reflect on our
journey. The Barrier Reef is nearly 2000
kilometers long. It begins near Brisbane
and ends at Cape Tribulation. It
consists of over 140 islands. Although we explored only a handful, we have a
good sense of the reef, the islands, and the nearby mainland.
Brisbane - Gateway City To Queensland
On
the flight to Brisbane, we had befriended a passenger who was full of helpful
information. When we said our goodbyes
to Vicky at the baggage claim., almost as an after thought, she volunteered her
husband who was picking her up, to drop us off at a nearby train station. It would save us some money, enough for a
good meal, and without a thought I said sure.
Her husband, Tom, was very
nice. They were both retired and had
traveled extensively so we lots of experiences to share with them. They lived in the direction away from
Brisbane city on the coast serviced by train. We put all our luggage in the
back and buckled up. As we drove, they
wondered if we might want to do a little sightseeing on the coastal rode. They were so generous with their time and
transport. They said there were several train stations and that all returned to
Brisbane.
 The time slipped quickly as we continued our tour past tidal flats, boat harbors, and seaside residential neighborhoods. It suddenly became more rural with no traffic and I started to question my judgment and their intentions. My mind now raced with doubts about this kind couple who really might be up to mischief.
We
had all our valuables with us. I asked where we were as it looked like we were
off the grid and how far were we from the train station. Tom said it’s just up the road, yet I saw no
houses or cars, only Queensland bush. I
think Vicky picked up on my concern, suggesting that they drive us to another
station. We arrived at the other
station, not so isolated, within a few minutes.
I felt such relief and gave them each a big hug for their kindness. They will surely get a good chuckle out of
this when they read it, but Tom and Vicky gave us a wonderful memory. They
shared with us that warm, friendly Ozzie hospitality that makes Australia such
a wonderful country to visit. We won’t
forget their kindness.
 
Brisbane
is a beautiful City. It is built on a
river with many bridges. Like Sydney, there is a respect for the heritage of early Queensland, though it feels much
newer. The architecture is impressive and a ferry trip on the river is the best
way to experience Brisbane.
 
No
trip to Brisbane is complete without a visit to a Koala Park. They are rarely
seen in the wild so this is your best opportunity to study them up close. If you want, you can even cuddle one. There are also kangaroos in the park. They can be quite dangerous in the wild. They have sharp claws and can kick you with
powerful legs. These two animals are iconic symbols of Australia and you will
not find them anywhere else on the planet.
Brisbane
is close to one end of the Great Barrier Reef.
We were informed that this was
jellyfish or stinger season and that we needed to take the matter seriously. Imagine being attacked by a swarm of angry
wasps. These tiny, translucent critters
can cause a lot of pain. It is common
for someone seduced by the pristine beaches and blue waters to go for a swim
and be stung. Not once, but multiple times.
Hospitalization is often required and some victims have died. I recall
a friend who in the seventies unsuspectingly ventured into the water during
jellyfish season and had to be hospitalized.
 
Of
course you can wear a condom fitting, stinger suit that minimizes your risk.
But wearing tight leotards in warm water of 79 degrees F is not an inviting way
to explore the reef. You need full
protection. Hat and gloves are an essential part of your unfashionable
statement.
A Change In Plans
I
was quickly losing my romanticized notion to explore the Great Barrier Reef. It
was tragic to think that these beautiful beaches and waters were so
dangerous. Our dilemma got me thinking
about our options, other islands and reefs that shared the Coral Sea with the
Great Barrier Reef.
We
investigated Papua New Guinea. It was
too dangerous with gangs and violence.
The current reputation of the Solomon Islands was not much better. There were the French colonial islands of New
Caledonia and the nearby Vanuatu Islands. Both were expensive to visit and
neither had an easy infrastructure for exploring them. That left New Zealand
and The Fijian Islands. New Zealand had
lots of appeal. It was affordable, but cold.
We were dressed for the beach, not camping or trekking.
 
Fiji
was the furthest island group away that we would consider. It was 4.5 hour from Brisbane by plane and
surprisingly cost only $250US roundtrip. This was the offseason.
Further
investigation revealed that many of the Fijian islands were not only
affordable, but picture, postcard beautiful.
This is where I wanted to celebrate my seventieth birthday.
This
is what adventure travel is all about. We had time on our side with few
constraining dates. We could be flexible and change our plans as needed. We followed our intuition and were greatly
reward with unimagined experiences and new friends. We visited the Blue Lagoon
where Brook Shields became of age. We
had Tom Hank’s Castaway Island all to ourselves. But Tom and Wilson were nowhere to be found. .
Thinking that one could do worse than being shipwrecked in the Blue Lagoon with
Brook, I asked two Aussie ladies whether they could endure being marooned with
Tom on Castaway. Both opted for a well
proportioned local Fijian. Sorry
Tom! I was surprised as much as you!
 
Didn’t these ladies realize that Fiji was once
known as the Cannibal Islands where cultural habit and food choices made
everyone a potential meal! One Fijian
chief consumed over 850 humans.
Immortality was believed achieved with the consumption of 1000. Cannibalism
is no longer practiced. Regardless of their food choices we found that Fijians
are delightfully warm and friendly. Their cultural heritage is rich. Their dance, including skillful movements
with Machetes and fire, is truly amazing. We had nothing but memorable
interactions and highly recommend others visit Fiji.
The Fijian Islands
 
Fiji
is not just one island, but nearly 300.
There were two groupings of interest to us, the Mamanucas and the
southern, mountainous Yasawas. Not knowing what to expect, we decided to Island
hop spending a couple of nights on several different ones. This turned out to be a good strategy because
we discovered many remote lagoons, pristine waters, white, sandy beaches, and breathtaking
coral reefs, rich in variety with colorful fish.
  
We
decided to explore the more remote Yasawa islands first. Our thinking was that the surrounding coral
and waters would be less contaminated and less tourists because it was more
expensive and required a bigger time commitment.
There
were not many options for traveling to the islands. It was pretty much controlled by one company,
Awesome Adventures, whom I might add offers an excellent service. Where it might take you 2 days to reach the
outer islands in a small boat, their catamarans ferry people to many islands,
reaching the outer islands in under 6 hours. They also had contracts to service
by boat all the resorts as well as surprisingly control of accommodation
bookings. It was nearly impossible for anyone to compete with them.
 
A
trip to the islands was an adventure in itself.
You passed by many idyllic islands of varying sizes, dropping off or
picking up passengers. Many were 10
minute to 30 minute islands, the time necessary to walk their circumference.
Others were much larger, taking 2 to 4 hours. But not many required a day or
more. The larger islands were developed
first. As everything is owned in Fiji,
all the islands are usually under the control of a nearby local chief with
foreigners developing a resort on limited lease arrangements with a village.
 
Not every island is inhabited and lodgings
vary in quality. Backpackers can stay in
dorms of 20 people for $30 a night, while a private room with bath might go for
$125 to $500 a night. Thankfully even with the increased accessibility of the
islands over the last 5 years, there were ample lodging choices. You could find
lively islands visited by younger back backers or opt for the serenity and
isolation offered by others. What every island had in common was a beautiful
setting. The surrounding reefs dazzle the senses with colorful coral and shades
of blue water defined by the height of the reef. Add a palm-fringed shoreline, the sea lapping
softly over white sand, bits of coral and abandoned shells and you’ve got your
very own paradise.
 
When
you arrive and leave an island, the host villagers greet you with song and
music. Meals were included and you ate to a schedule. There were a variety of
excursions that you could do. They
required a guide and all was easily arranged.
If you wanted to visit a village, there was someone to take you to meet
the chief. They helped with deciding on
an appropriate gift, usually money, and you were then given permission to
explore the village.
Things overall were organized more than I
prefer, but there were advantages. There was ease of movement from snorkeling
the reefs to visiting remote villages. Time to plan lodging, transport, and
guides evaporates into more time to enjoy a good book and a hammock.
What About The Weather
 
As
you may recall Sara and I were traveling in the rainy season. Yet the weather in the tropics is very
different than say, the constant NW drizzle suffered by locals in Oregon. Yes, there were more cloud filled days, but
gorgeous billowy cloud formations with rain showers and rainbows in the
distance. In the islands the weather
tends to move through and over, lingering on larger landmasses with hilly
terrain and mountains to stop its progress.
Thus the sky itself was often a cloud scattered blue. When it was truly overcast, the clouds offered
protection from the blistering sun ideal for pleasant midday walks on the
beach.
 
Normally
the sun shows itself with such frequency throughout the day that you never
missed it. Day after day of continuous sun
would have brought calmer seas and slightly better visibility for snorkeling,
but not enough to warrant postponing our adventure to the high season.
 
Normally
if it rains, it rains at night or maybe there is a downpour in the afternoon
that is the ideal time for a siesta or quick shower. But most surprising was though cloudy from
time to time, rain on these outer islands was minimal. In fact with all the climatic changes the
islanders were experiencing a shortage of rain water for their crops However, on the biggest island of Fiji, Viti
Levu, home to the towns of Nadi and Suva, there is a lot more rain on a daily
basis and flooding that accompanies a torrential downpour and swollen rivers.
The Purging
  
Returning to Nadi on the big island, we had
time for one more adventure to the South near Coral Beach. We booked into a
hillside villa in the Namuka Bay Resort.
It was so beautiful with only one other guest. Meals were served on our veranda overlooking
the sea. The resort was very proud of
its organic vegetable garden and fruit trees.
They were trying to become self-subsistent while maintaining a green
profile.
I
always ask for milk with my coffee and found out that it was obtained fresh
daily from their very own cow. So l
arose early to lend a helping hand. I’ve
hardly any experience milking a cow, but soon was able to gain the trust of
Bessie who yielded about half a bucket per day.
During
our stay I was recovering from a bout of intestinal illness undoubtedly from
the water on Mana Island. They collect
rainwater so one needs to be diligent in boiling it well to kill bacteria.
There is no well water available. When I
shower I often open my mouth. That can
be a mistake.
This
was definitely an idyllic place to recuperate, as the food was excellent and
water filtered. When the white-bearded Fijian owner heard of my stomach issue, he offered to
give me a Fijian blessing and bad energy purge. I agreed as the diarrhea and
stomach cramps lingered longer than I expected, even with mild medication. He prayed over me in an incomprehensible
language, hands above my head. He then spit air at my stomach and motioned with
his hands downward rapidly and away from my body. I closed my eyes and breathed
slowly in and out. He was intent and using powerful medical practice of the
islands, not normally a part of our Western tradition. I immediately felt better and the next day I
was back to normal. Did it help me? I’d
let him bless me again.
Muddy Up
 
On
our last day in Fiji we decided to visit a mountainous hillside orchid garden.
It was both beautiful and serene to walk the trail with such a variety of
species and color that greeted us. The
orchids thrive in this hot humid setting in shady conditions, reaching for more
light by growing off the jungle floor under the tree canopy in an epiphytic
relationship. They use their host for support rather than in a symbiotic manner
for food.
  
With
only a couple of hours before our plane departed for Brisbane, we left the
garden to explore some nearby local hot springs. What an adventure that turned out to be. Nothing compares to taking a Fijian mud bath. You slop it on then let the mud dry. It
shrinks and shrivels your skin, invigorating it and even offers help to those
with chronic skin issues. I felt more
youthful afterwards but more so from uncontrollable bouts of laughter. We wallowed in a mud pool like children giggling
at the other, all white eyeballs and pearly teeth.
Byron Bay
 
When
we arrived back in Australia, we had planned a week to explore the coastline
near to Brisbane. We had heard good things and stingers were not an issue. We decided to explore the area around Byron
Bay 2 hours away. . It turned out to be
our favorite beach. We intended to stay for 2 nights and stayed for 5. The town
is a mecca for artsy hippy types. We loved its laid back, friendly feel. It was close to Surfer’s Paradise and the famous
Gold Coast strip with its plush high-rise apartments and fashionable shops. All
had beautiful beaches, but we opted for the smaller, cozy feeling of Byron Bay
with its proximity to the rural, hilly countryside
and quaint nearby villages.
Not only were the beaches of Byron Bay drop
dead gorgeous, but clean beyond all reasonable expectation. The Aussies pick up
their trash and leave nothing behind.
The beaches were pristine as if you were the first to visit them, though
hundreds of people did every day. And
there appeared to be no trash in the sea or accumulation on the shoreline, only
the remnants of breaking waves and a bit of foam to remind us of the excellent
body surfing just a few feet away.
Aussies
love the sea and surfing is a big pastime. There is also sea kayaking and
fishing available. In addition the
Aussies pride themselves on their sea rescue and lifeguard system. You would often see them in teams with different
colored swimwear competing. They work
hard to perfect their skills in order to keep the beaches and surf save for
us.
The Dream And The Reality
The
dream was to dive on the Great Barrier Reef. The Whitsunday Islands close to
Arlie Beach, though gorgeous above water, were disappointing below. We snorkeled several times at several of their
best sites. The water was murky with
poor visibility. The coral was absent or in poor condition. The fish were scarce. I was thankful that we
had visited Fiji and had such an incredible time under the sea.
 
Though the snorkeling was a bust, the boat trips through the Whitsundays were really fun. Whitsunday beach is gorgeous. We screamed through the ocean on an oversized inflatable holding on for dear life, then enjoyed a leisurely day on a old wooden schooner.
  
We
did not visit the outer reef as it was nearly 3 hours from Arlie beach by high-speed
catamaran. We decided to save that experience for Cairns where the outer reef
was only 90 minutes away. But so far the
expense and time required to visit the reef was a disappointment. It was much,
much more beautiful on the reefs of Fiji, Indonesia, Borneo, Mexico (Cozumel)
and The Philippines.
In The Middle Of The Ocean
In
Cairns we booked a snorkeling trip to the outer reef. Our expectations were low
as the marketing hype, like in Arlie Beach, promised a lot. The day began with overcast skies and rain; however,
about an hour out from land, the skies cleared and the weather was simple
gorgeous.
 
The
swells were notable as we ventured out into open sea. Finally the boat stopped
and dropped anchor. If you scanned the
horizon, there was nothing to mark our location. There were no islands. No other boats. No floats. Just open water as if you were sitting in the
middle of teacup, the edges defined by the horizon. We would soon go below to visually sip and
savor.
There
were waves breaking on the open sea that indicated there was reef below. The
waters were surprisingly calm just inside the reef given that we were miles
from land and susceptible to any wind.
Before and below us were pockets of deep water, a profound, dark blue
interspersed with shallower areas in shades of turquoise.
We
snorkeled toward the breaking waves and the reef. It appeared like the mesa of
a canyon punctuated with crevices and ravines. The water depth ranged from 2
meters(6ft) to 20 meters(60ft). It was
low tide so the reef was closer to the surface. Sunlight penetrated the crystal clear water
with visibility of 200 ft.
Nervous at first, on the lookout for man-eating
sharks, you slowly began to relax into the multitude of brilliant, vibrant
coral colors. Schools of fish swam
nearby as did smaller ones, also multicolored.
They darted in and out of the coral and crevices in a game of hide and
seek from the larger, predatory fish. It was breathtaking sight in every
direction.
The
water temperature was ideal about 28˚Celsius (82˚F). The only thing to interfere with this
glorious moment was the stinger suit that we were required to wear for
safety. Fortunately we encountered no
stingers or their cousin, the bigger box jellyfish. There was a slight current and an open sea,
not so favorable to jellyfish as are the lagoons, bays, and inlets. I will admit that the stinger suits did help
to retain body heat. I could easily have
stayed in the water for 6 to 8 hours comfortably.
You Begin To Notice
After
the initial awe given the magnificence of it all, you began to notice in the
subtleties of color, more obscure fish and mollusks well camouflaged. Nemo,
orange with stripes of white, was easy to see nestled in a soft coral bed of
mauves and greens. But the surprise of seeing giant clams in wait for an
unsuspecting passerby was clearly a highlight for me. Many were small, 1 to
2ft, hinge to hinge.
Their
outer shell is covered with sea grass and smaller crustaceans. They blend into
the reef, a permanent resident of their surrounding. They are not mobile but lay on the bottom
with their jaws open. The fleshy center has
a bluish tinge and the edge of the shell has a million whisker like sensors
that detect a potential meal. A brush of
these fine hairs and the clam shuts tightly. There is no way you could escape
should you inadvertently stick your hand within their vise like jaws.
After
seeing several small clams, I was unprepared for the thrill of finding a
well-hidden giant clam that easily measured 1.5m (5ft). It was like a dinosaur,
a snow leopard that had managed to survive its predators. I had no intention of divulging its
whereabouts as they are edible and a sought after delicacy. They thrive in the warmer waters of the Great
Barrier, but are nearing extinction.
Below
me about 40 feet and swimming upward was a large Wrasse. This 2 inch thick fish was nearly rectangular
at 18 inches. It was impressive in size
and beautiful to see. I dove down to greet
it at about 20 ft.
Imprinted
forever in my memory, my only documentation of this wondrous moment was of the
Wrasse swimming up to greet me by swimming between my arm and body. It slightly rubbed my side as if giving me a
gentle caress. And then it was gone. I
was astounded, yet elated. This was the
unexpected Great Barrier Reef that I had imagined. The moments were full of
color and wonder, full of hope and harmony. Later the sighting of a large reef
shark brought only calm and respect. He was the king of his domain. I was granted permission to enter, to leave
only bubbles, to fulfill my dream. It
was the best dive experience of my life.
Diver Missing
On
our return to Cairns, we received a call from another boat. A diver was missing. He had left his buddy to explore the reef on
his own. This was not a smart move and
now many people were looking for him. By
the time 45 minutes had past a helicopter and emergency coast guard vessel had
been notified and were preparing for search and rescue. Imagine being alone in open sea. We sighted an object moving. It was a bird on a piece of wood. We sighted a fin floating and crew entered
the water. It was a lost fin from
another boat.
Just
when you are nearly certain this fellow is in the grasps of a giant clam, stuck
in a coral cave, or hanging from the mouth of a great white, he is sighted and
rescued. His selfishness cost him
dearly, $8 to 10000 dollars for the rescue operation underway. It was an
expensive lesson in the importance of the buddy system and keeping your boat in
sight. The notable thing for me was the
thoughtful manner of the search, the rescue procedure and aid of assistance by
all boats in the area.
Sand Island
  
In
the middle of the sea was an island of only sand. There were no trees and people. Its size varied with the changing tide.
Around the island were beautiful soft coral and a multitude of fish. We hired a boat to take us snorkeling there. Tom and Wilson had it made with their island
of trees, caves, and coconuts. Here a
stranded seaman would die quickly without fresh water and shade from the sun.
It
was afternoon and the tide was low so that swimming from the island to the edge
of the reef over coral was unnerving.
The swells of the sea would lower you so that you were only inches above
the sharp, knife like edges of coral.
Timing your movement to swim at the height of the swells to deeper open
areas between the coral was a challenge.
Finally I reached the outer edge of the reef where it dropped off about
45 ft.
Our
guide was all ready fishing with a metal pole and a rubber sling that propelled
it. He would dive down 20 ft. chase a fish into small cave in the coral and
fire away. He was quite accurate with his weapon. I had lots of experience hunting lobster with
a similar tool except that my spear had a multi-pronged head of barbed
spikes. This made it difficult for the
fish or lobster to escape.
His
aim was excellent, but he lost a few fish that escaped from the barbless tip of
his spear. I wasn’t thrilled with this
as those fish would eventually die.
Those that he successfully shot, he tied around his waste in a colorful
bouquet. This was not a smart thing to
do.
When
we hunted, we always dragged a tiny inner tube with a large, empty rice sack
tied in the center. We would put our
lobster and fish in the bag. Sharks have
an excellent sense of smell. Better that
they attack the bag than my waist. Well, I noticed below our guide a couple of
2 meter reef sharks, probably attracted by the blood. At one point I turned to
see a shark racing toward him, veering off to the right after noting my
movement. Not good! I told him of the encounter and that I was
returning to the island as I didn’t want to be in danger near him.
When
he returned to the island, he didn’t have his spear. It turned out that he shot it at a fish and
it flew from his hand into deep water.
He was unable to retrieve it. I
reminded him that it was more common for hunters to return with their
weapons. He laughed out loud. The sad thing is that that simple metal pole
was expensive to buy, let alone find in the islands. He took it in stride
though, cleaned his fish and took them home to share with his extended
family.
Mana Island
 
We
went to Mana Island for 2 days and stayed for 5 nights. There were 4 lodging
options on the island. One cost nearly $1000US per night. They would fly in guests
landing on a bumby, grassy runway. They
would then take them by truck to their isolated resort built on the edge of the
sea. We had arrived by speed boat only
1.5 hours from Nadi. Because of our
budget, housing in a Fijian village would give us a better cultural reference
of island life. Our pink one-story house even had a bathroom. This was a luxury as many of our neighbors
used outhouses. If we left our door
open, the village would come to us. The
children were very curious. We even had
a goat enter. I quickly hide anything of
value as they are notorious thieves that will eat most anything.
 
What
convinced us to stay were the beautiful isolated beaches. We would walk 30 minutes, crossing the
airstrip, to a stretch of white sand that was always empty, though one time
there was a wedding taking place. It
doesn’t get much more idyllic than this beach bordered by palm trees and blue
sea.
Daily
we came to swim, returning for lunch and a nap.
Dinnertime came at dusk with the sunset.
There often was local entertainment that followed. Fire dancers and blindfolded knife dancers
dismayed us with their precision-like skill. There was also some very professional
locals who played impressive blues guitar.
Bedtime would follow with a walk under the
star lite night sky. The generator ran
for two more hours before our fan would shutdown. Usually there was a pleasant sea breeze to
follow and that kept us happy. Nights without a breeze were nearly
unbearable.
 
One
afternoon we visited the village chief to pay our respects and gift him for
permitting us to stay in the village. We met a couple of the local girls who
escorted us deeper into the village and to the nearby beach. Their island took only 4 hours to
circumnavigate by foot. It was best to
do at low tide as there were rocky places impossible to pass at certain times
of the day.
The
island was hilly and locals grew Kava Root used to make a traditional
ceremonial drink. Kava or the grog would
numb your mouth and tongue. It was
served from a large bowl and poured into half of a coconut shell. You could ask for low tide or high tide to
indicate the quantity you wanted. You then drink it in a single gulp, and yell
loudly “Bula!” You return the cup and
clap your hands three times. If you
drink enough there is a relaxing, drug like effect without hangover. The Kava tradition runs deep in the
culture. Because of high demand, Kava
root is sold by the kilo in huge covered market in Nadi. The Kava market rivals the vegetables and
fruit market in size as it is such a sought after item.
Back To Sydney
We
left Cairns for Sydney and our flight back to Argentina. We arrived early on a Friday. I had the address of a milonga that evening
about an hour away. I researched
milongas on the internet and could not
find any reference to it, but I did find one downtown, accessible by foot, and
closer. The milonga was only open for 3 hours, closing at midnight. We are used
to milongas that go for 6 to 9 hours so are expectations were low and wondered
about turnout. When we arrived there was
about 30 people in attendance . The music was very good and the level of
dancing was above average I was relieved that there was a wooden dance floor as
I was wearing my new foldable tango shoes.
The
room itself, beautifully appointed, made the night even more special. We
introduced ourselves to a couple at a nearby table. They like other guests that we later met were
warm and friendly. A couple of the
dancers were tango addicts and had been to Buenos Aires. We were also told that this milonga was the
best one in Sydney so we were very lucky to find it. You recall me saying that things come in
waves of three, good or bad. Luck was on
our side this time and we had a wonderful evening of Tango in Sydney. The next bit
of luck was our timing to return to Sydney as it was Mardi Gras weekend.
An Empty Closet
  
Sydney
is known for its gay Mardi Gras parade where thousands and thousands “Color Up”
and express their bi-sexual preferences.
. All the closets of Australia emptied into Oxford Street. For hours the parade, rich with creativity and flair, wiggled its way
through the hilly, Sydney neighborhood of Paddington. I can’t imagine anyone
was left behind.
Hundreds
of thousands of spectators from all over the world also joined them, shouting
their support. Many dressed up hoping for an invite to the After Party, a
supposed scene of debauchery and lust, a gay time in the middle of Carnival.
  
The
streets were overflowing with support and cheer. There
were so many professions represented. There were gay doctors and nurse, motorcyclists, firemen, police,
politicians, and surf rescue personnel.
Each and every one of the participants was full of gay pride. You couldn’t help but admire them for
stepping out given the prejudices and work obstacles that many of them
confront. For that one evening they were surrounded by acceptance from their
peers, straight people, and parents with gay children. It was pretty amazing to experience as the
photos show.
No Regrets
We
had an incredible time in Australia and Fiji. It was the fulfillment of a dream
to dive on the Great Barrier Reef. Along
the way we visited some delightful cities and rural towns. We met wonderful,
people who befriended us, helped us navigate the landscape, and shared their
favorite places and that subtle Aussie humor that keeps you chuckling for
hours.
  We body surfed and swam in the ocean. We explored gorgeous beaches, the plateaus above the sea, and we knocked at the door of the Great Australian Outback. We even took a detour to Fiji and not a cannibal in sight. There were no regrets. It was the trip of a lifetime. It was our big adventure for 2014.
The End
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